Aloe bardensis (Jus de feuilles d’Aloès) Aloe vera Leaf Juice Powder
Origins
Known for generations in traditional medicine, Aloe Vera or Aloe is widely used in cosmetics and dermatology. Its healing properties (1), as well as its hydrating and soothing effects have been demonstrated by a number of scientific studies: this plant’s extract is commonly used to accelerate wound shrinkage, reduce healing time and decrease the severity of associated complications (2), as well as to preserve the skin’s integrity and moisture (3). Aloe Vera is also known for its anti-bacterial, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties (4).
(1) Morin Emmanuel. Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f. : Aspects pharmacologiques et cliniques, Thèse, Université de Nantes, faculté de pharmacie, 2008.
(2) Drudi D, Tinto D, Ferranti D, Fiorelli F, Pozzo MD, Capitani O. Aloe barbadensis miller versus silver sulfadiazine creams for wound healing by secondary intention in dogs and cats: A randomized controlled study. Res Vet Sci. 2018 Apr;117:1-9.
(3) Hekmatpou D, Mehrabi F, Rahzani K, Aminiyan A. The Effect of Aloe Vera Clinical Trials on Prevention and Healing of Skin Wound: A Systematic Review. Iran J Med Sci. 2019 Jan;44(1):1-9.
(4) Kumar R, Singh AK, Gupta A, Bishayee A, Pandey AK. Therapeutic potential of Aloe vera-A miracle gift of nature. Phytomedicine. 2019 Jul;60:152996.
Origins
Extracted from the fruit of Argan trees, Argan oil originates in North Africa, where it has long been used by Berber women for its cosmetic properties. Thanks to the essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and polyphenols it contains (1), (2), Argan oil has beneficial effects for the skin and coat. It is known to nourish the coat and make it soft, supple and silky. Its components also help restore the skin’s lipidic film (3).
(1) Hilali M, Charrouf Z, Soulhi Ael A, Hachimi L, Guillaume D. Influence of origin and extraction method on argan oil physico-chemical characteristics and composition. J Agric Food Chem. 2005 Mar 23;53(6):2081-7.
(2) Monfalouti HE, Guillaume D, Denhez C, Charrouf Z. Therapeutic potential of argan oil: a review. J Pharm Pharmacol. 2010 Dec;62(12):1669-75.
(3) Lin TZ , Zhong L, Juan Luis Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2018 Jan; 19(1): 70.
Hêtre (Extrait de bourgeon de) Fagus Sylvatica Extract
Origins
Also called “fayard” by French foresters, Beeches are majestic trees that grow in our forests. Its buds, already used during the Middle-Ages, are embryonal products that concentrate the tree’s active agents. They are picked at a very specific moment of the tree’s development.
Beech buds are rich in polyphenols, amino acids and other metabolites and hence have antioxidant, hydrating and nourishing virtues for the skin. In vitro tests show these buds favour cell oxygenation and stimulate the synthesis of proteins that make up the skin’s structure (keratin, filaggrin, collagen and elastin), thus participating in the regeneration and restructuring of the skin and cutaneous barrier.
Agrumes (Eaux d’) Citrus Limon Fruit Water – Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Water
Origins
The water extracted directly from the core of the fruit is 100% organic and natural vegetal water. It contains essential nutrients (vitamins, mineral salts, oligo-elements, and water-soluble essential oils) that help hydrate and revitalize skin. They reinforce the ears’ delicate skin and protect it from external aggressions. Orange water is also soothing, protecting and calming.
Bleuet (Eau florale de) Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water
Origins
Cornflower floral water possesses soothing, astringent and decongestant virtues. Its beneficial properties for the eyelids and fragile eye contours have led it to be nicknamed in French “Casse-lunettes” (“breaker of glasses”). The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties (1) of the blue centaurea, its other name, have been demonstrated by different pharmacological studies: the polysaccharides present in the flower head modulate immunity.
The steam distillation of Cornflower does not allow for the extraction of an essential oil but only of a liquid with a density close to that of water, called hydrolat, or flower water.
(1) Escher GB, Santos JS, Rosso ND, Marques MB, Azevedo L, do Carmo MAV et al. Chemical study, antioxidant, anti-hypertensive, and cytotoxic/cytoprotective activities of Centaurea cyanus L. petals aqueous extract. Food Chem Toxicol. 2018 Aug;118:439-453.
(2) Garbacki N, Gloaguen V, Damas J, Bodart P, Tits M, Angenot L. Anti-inflammatory and immunological effects of Centaurea cyanus flower-heads. J Ethnopharmacol. 1999 Dec 15;68(1-3):235-41.
Origins
Sodium hyaluronate is a glycosaminoglycans (a complex carbohydrate) present in large quantities in connective tissue. It has viscoelastic properties (it retains its shape) and reinforces tissue cohesion. Thanks to its significant hygroscopic properties (it captures water molecules), it helps maintain tissues hydrated. In external use, it also contributes to skin regeneration. Several publications have demonstrated the beneficial effects of sodium hyaluronate on the regeneration of dog skin (1), (2).
(1) Ferrari R, Boracchi P, Romussi S, Ravasio G, Stefanello D. Application of hyaluronic acid in the healing of non-experimental open wounds: A pilot study on 12 wounds in 10 client-owned dogs. Vet World. 2015 Oct;8(10):1247-59.
(2) Necas J, Bartosikova L, Brauner P, Kolar J. Hyaluronic acid. (hyaluronan): a review. Vet Med. 2008;8:397–411.
Lavandin Abrial (Huile essentielle de) Lavandula Hybrida Abrial Herb Oil
Origins
Lavandin stems from the crossbreed between spike lavender (Lavendula latifolia spica) and officinal lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). It is found in large quantities in the South of France, where it is mainly used by the perfume industry. Lavandin has notorious healing and anti-inflammatory properties (1) and is known for its soothing effects. Its bactericidal and fungicidal properties (2), (3) make it an essential oil often used in dermatology, particularly in otology. It might even have effects on Malassezia, a yeast responsible for skin diseases. However, its use on cats is not recommended, due to the camphor ketones it contains (4).
(1) Bajalan I, Rouzbahani R, Pirbalouti AG, Maggi F. Chemical Composition and Antibacterial Activity of Iranian Lavandula x hybrida. Chem Biodivers. 2017 Jul;14(7).
(2) Garzoli S, Turchetti G, Giacomello P, Tiezzi A, Laghezza Masci V, Ovidi E. Liquid and Vapour Phase of Lavandin (Lavandula × intermedia) Essential Oil: Chemical Composition and Antimicrobial Activity. Molecules. 2019 Jul 25;24(15).
(3) Jianu C, Pop G, Gruia A T, Horhat F G. Chemical Composition and Antimicrobial Activity of Essential Oils of Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) Grown in Western Romania. Int. J. Agric. Biol., 2013 ;15: 772‒776.
(4) Kamali H, Jalilvand MR, Aminimoghadamfarouj N. Pressurized fluid extraction of essential oil from Lavandula hybrida using a modified supercritical fluid extractor and a central composite design for optimization. J Sep Sci. 2012 Jun;35(12):1479-85.
ORIGINS
Lemons, which come from the Mediterranean region, are the product of a crossbreeding around the 5th millennium B.C between the bitter orange and the citron (1). Lemon is one of the most useful fruits in natural medicine by virtue of its numerous properties.
Lemon zest essential oil is famous for its anti-infectious and anti-bacterial action (2). A study on dogs (3) shows its effects against the Malassezia skin disease (provoked by yeast of the same name), rendering the use of lemon zest essential oil particularly interesting for ear care.
(1) Curk F, Ollitrault F, Garcia-Lor A, Luro F, Navarro L, Ollitrault P. Phylogenetic origin of limes and lemons revealed by cytoplasmic and nuclear markers, Annals of Botany, 2016 April;117,4:565–583.
(2) Chevalley A. Utilisation de la phytothérapie et de l’aromathérapie dans le cadre du conseil vétérinaire chez le chat, le chien et le cheval. Thèse, Université de Lorraine, faculté de pharmacie, 2016.
(3) Nardoni S, Pistelli L, Baronti I, Najar B, Pisseri F, Bandeira Reidel RV, Papini R, Perrucci S, Mancianti F. Traditional Mediterranean plants: characterization and use of an essential oils mixture to treat Malassezia otitis externa in atopic dogs. Nat Prod Res. 2017 Aug;31(16):1891-1894.
Mauve (Extrait de fleur de) Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Origins
Mallow flowers are present in the temperate zones of Europe, Asia, North America and North Africa.
Mallow has an incredible soothing and anti-irritant action that make it particularly well suited to sensitive skins. It is used to complement medical treatments in the case of inflammatory cutaneous disorders such as atopic dermatitis (1), (2). The significant quantities of flavonoids and anthocyanosides it contains give it anti-radical and microcirculation strengthening properties.
(1) Viegi L, Pieroni A, Guarrera PM, Vangelisti R. A review of plants used in folk veterinary medicine in Italy as basis for a databank. J Ethnopharmacol. 2003 Dec;89(2-3):221-44.
(2) Prudente AS, Sponchiado G, Mendes DAGB, Soley BS, Cabrini DA, Otuki MF. Pre-clinical efficacy assessment of Malva sylvestris on chronic skin inflammation. Biomed Pharmacother. 2017 Sep;93:852-860.
Camomille Romaine (Eau florale de) Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water
Origins
Roman chamomile is a medicinal plant known since Antiquity, when it was used in infusions to soothe digestive disorders (1). Contrary to what its name of “Roman camomile” implies, it originates in Western Europe and North Africa, not in Italy!
Roman camomile—or noble camomile—is traditionally used to treat human eye disorders such as an obstruction of the eye ducts, or in cases of conjunctivitis (2). The Coumarins it contains, considered to be the main bioactive components, have anti-inflammatory, healing and soothing properties, and are particularly well tolerated (3).
Camomile flower water soothes irritated eyes and skin, as well as rashes. It is obtained by distilling fresh flowers with steam.
(1) May P. Guide pratique de phyto-aromathérapie pour les animaux de compagnie. MedCom ed. 2014:101. 255p.
(2) Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: A herbal medicine of the past with bright future. Mol Med Rep. 2010 Nov 1;3(6):895-901.
(3) Johnson W Jr, Heldreth B, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD et al. Safety Assessment of Anthemis nobilis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2017 May/Jun;36(1_suppl):57S-66S.
ORIGINS
Known since Antiquity for its delicate fragrance, this flower (the name of which refers to the city of Damascus) grows spontaneously in Syria and parts of the Caucasus. It was brought back from the Holy Land by Crusaders.
Damascus rose floral water, or hydrolat, is obtained by steam-distilling fresh flowers. A liter of this precious liquid requires several hundreds of flowers!
The phenetyl alcohol (1) contained in Rosa Damascena’s petals is known for its soothing and anti-microbial properties (2), which are beneficial in ophthalmology (3).
(1) Verma RS, Padalia RC, Chauhan A, Singh A, Yadav AK. Volatile constituents of essential oil and rose water of damask rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) cultivars from North Indian hills. Nat Prod Res. 2011 Oct;25(17):1577-84.
(2) Corre J, Lucchini JJ, Mercier GM, Cremieux A., Antibacterial activity of phenethyl alcohol and resulting membrane alterations., Res Microbiol., 1990; 141, 4: 483-497.
(3) Mahboubi M. Rosa damascena as holy ancient herb with novel applications J Tradit Complement Med. 2016 Jan; 6(1): 10–16.
Blé (Hydrolysat de protéines de) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Origins
The story of the relationship between wheat and mankind dates back to prehistory, when it was cultivated wild. It is with the harvesting of wheat that agriculture took off in the Middle East over ten thousand years ago. Wheat proteins have a strong affinity with hair keratin (1), hence the name phytokeratin. They are a source of amino acids and help improve and maintain the coat’s hydration. They also contribute to reinforcing the hair’s structure, by making it suppler, softer, and shinier (2).
Hydrolysed wheat proteins are an interesting alternative to the use of animal keratin.
(1) Wang S, Meng D, Wang S, Zhang Z, Yang R, Zhao W. Modification of wheat gluten for improvement of binding capacity with keratin in hair. R Soc Open Sci. 2018 Feb 7;5(2):171216.
(2) Vazquez Villa A L, Senrra Aragão M R, Pereira dos Santos E, Mazotto A M, Zingali R B, Paraguai de Souza E, Vermelho A B. Feather keratin hydrolysates obtained from microbial keratinases: effect on hair fiber. BMC Biotechnol 2013 ; 13: 15.
